- Education Center
Unlike most Internet jewelers, at Diamond Design Co. each piece of jewelry is carefully designed and crafted by our in-house jewelers.
Need it wider, smaller, more stones, less stones, a different metal or precious stone, NOT A PROBLEM. Our jewelry is made-to-order-, "made by us for you".
For round diamonds we use The Gemological Institute of Americas universally accepted Make classifications that define the range of empirical measurements for round diamonds and that also governs the interpretive aspects (symmetry and polish) of cut. GIA divides round diamonds into four make classes, Make Class One and Make Class Two (preferred), Make Class Three and Make Class Four (average and poor).
For round Ideal Cut diamonds we use the American Gem Societys grading system that rates each proportion and finish category from 0 (preferred) to 10 (poor). An AGS Triple Zero, the finest round diamond in the world, has Ideal proportions, polish, and symmetry.
For fancy shape diamonds, all standard shapes other than round, it is my experience that the grading system developed by Mr. David Atlas and his Accredited Gem Appraisers provides the most realistic assessment of grading variants to the actual appearance of the diamond. AGA grades fancy cut diamonds as fine, average and below average.
One kind of light we see viewing a diamond from the crown (top view) is light viewers eye is, primarily, a function of the depth of the diamonds pavilion and the resulting degree of the pavilion angle. By using grading systems from the three aforementioned professional organizations we are able to judge the amount of refracted light that is returned to the viewers eye from within the various shapes of diamonds.
Ideal Cut requires a pavilion depth between 42.2% and 43.8% that has entered the diamond through the top, reflected off the interior pavilion (bottom) facets and returned to the eye. This light is refracted (bent) by the molecular density of the diamond whereby white light is separated into its component of rainbow colors. The amount of refracted light that is returned to the eye.
When a diamond is cut too deep, increasing the pavilion angle, light entering the top of the diamond leaks out the sides rather than being returned to the viewers eye and the diamond becomes dark and obscure. We call such a diamond a nailhead because the center top view is dark. Additional carat weight is used and wasted in such extra depth with the result being a smaller diameter than would be characteristic of a diamond more optimally cut.
When a diamond is cut to shallow with a low pavilion angle the diamond becomes lifeless from the top view and it is called a wafer. With both nailheads and wafers spotlights can compensate for their dark or dull, lifeless appearance by causing excessive flash from the exterior crown facets. Buyer Beware of jewelers demonstrating diamonds under spotlights as it is the first indication of the jewelers intent to fool you into a false impression of the beauty of the diamond and you should take demonstrations under spotlights as a red flag to indicate other deceptive and misleading practices are quite possible.
Bow-ties are a dark, obscure phenomena occurring in the center of elongated diamonds that have a pointed culet causing a dark obscurity that travels up and down the length of a diamond as it is tipped from one end to another. The effect if this major cutting deficiency is a dark, lifeless and unattractive center. The cause is this phenomena is the increased pavilion angle at the culet center, the deepest part of the diamond, an angle so deep as to cause refracted light in the center of the diamond to leak out the sides of the stone rather than being returned through the crown (top) and to the viewers eye. Although the bow ties in oval, pear and marquis shape diamonds can never be completely eliminated by virtue of their cutting styles, the bow-tie can be kept to a minimum. For the oval, pear and marquis diamond it is most important to insist on the Fine grade A depth percentage of between 59% and 63% to eliminate as much of the bow tie effect as is possible for those diamond shapes.
A second kind of light we see in viewing a diamond from the crown (top) view is the flash of environmental light that reflects from the adamantine (hard) exterior crown facets of a diamond. The Blend of flash from the external top facets and dispersion (fire) from within the diamond is graded by the table percentage. In general, the larger the table diameter the more that flash overpowers and obscures the refracted light (fire) from within the diamond. Then, when the crown angle varies from optimal, the blend (balance) of flash and fire is altered causing an unequally balanced display of two of the components of light we see in a diamond, flash and fire (body color is the third component of light). By using the grading systems of three professional groups, Gemological Institute of America, The American Gem Society and The Accredited Gem Appraisers we are able to grade the mix of refracted light that is returned to the viewers eye from within the various shapes of diamonds and the flash of exterior light reflecting from the crown facets. In referring to the Gemological Institute of America diamond grading system or the Accredited Gem Appraisers fancy shape diamond grading system we will use only the grading information contained on a Gemological Institute of America Diamond Grading Report, a certificate that does not state the crown angle or height.
Diamonds that are lifeless and obscure because of poor table percentages and/or poor depth percentages can be artificially enhanced by the use of multi-directional spotlights and you should take the use of spotlights for demonstrating diamonds as the jewelers attempt to cheat the actual appearance of the diamond Buyer Beware. Diamond grading environments are actually less expensive to maintain than are the spotlight showrooms of too many jewelry stores.
Please visit our Custom Design Center.
The ultimate in jewelry buying experience. Test drive your ring puts you in the drivers seat. Your ring, your way. Learn More
Quality you can trust from Diamond Design Co. We make each piece to your exact specifications. See our videos. Learn More